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Energy Suspension Power Steering Rack Bushings

This is how I did the install on my 1996 Tacoma 4x4. This write-up is merely to give you an idea what is involved with the process, and I do not claim that this is the best way to do it. Please read the instructions and use common sense when doing your own install. Bear in mind, Energy Suspension recommends you have a professional do the installation for you.

I used the following tools:

socket wrench with "cheater" bar and 6"extension
19 mm (or 3/4") deep socket
22mm shallow socket
12mm socket (for skid plate)
large flat head screwdriver
2 small C-clamps
Channel-Locks
jack and jack stands
Dremel tool, with abrasive drum tip (see picture under #6 below)
hammer

The set prior to install.

1. Take off the skid plates. I tried just removing the rear skid plate, but I needed to remove the front skid plate in order to have better access to the top bolt on the rack.

2. Support the front of the truck on jack stands.

3. The instructions advise us to disconnect the driver's side tie rod end. I elected to skip this step, and I think things went okay.

4. Remove the bolts holding the rack in place. These things are on tight.

This shows the top nut holding on the U-bracket. The bolt sticking out forces you to use a deep socket. I found that either 19 mm or 3/4" would work.

The four nuts and bolts you need to remove.

5. Pull out the old bushings. This is the hardest part. The bushing behind the U-bracket just pulls off with no problem, but the other two were not designed to be replaced easily!

The large bushing has a metal washer attached to the back of it, so it would only pull out from that direction. First, I cut the rubber ring from around the edge of the bushing that would be pulled back into the hole. Then I used a big screwdriver to pry the washer side out a cm or two. Then I grabbed it with the channel-locks and used those to pry it out the rest of the way. I'm still sore from wrestling with it.

I used the two small c-clamps (only one shown here) to push the smaller bushing out the top of the hole. I tried using a large clamp, but it didn't fit well in the tight space.

6. You will need to enlarge the inner diameter of the smaller sleeve that comes with the kit. It seems to be a quality kit otherwise, but I can't understand why they keep including this sleeve that's the wrong size. I used my Dremel tool (everyone should have one) and the bit shown below to enlarge the hole. It worked quite well. Just grind it out a little at a time, using the original bolt to guage how much you should take out. When the bolt slides through, you're done.

The dremel tip I used. The bolt is sticking through the sleeve without excess wiggle room.

7. Install the new polyurethane bushings and the sleeves. They are quite snug, and I found it was easier to put in the bushings and then tap in the metal sleeves with a hammer.

8. Line up the rack in order to put all the bolts back on. The instructions suggested putting the U-bracket on first, but I ended up putting the driver's side bolt on, then the U-bracket. The center cross-member hole lined up relatively easily, but you have to make sure the metal sleeve is centered in the bushing (not too high or too low).

9. Put all the nuts and bolts on and tighten everything up to factory specs. You may as well put your skid plate back on and take your truck off the jack stands, too.

The old bushings.

I hope this has been helpful.